Omnivore - Hunting for lionfish in ATL
One small step for sushi, one giant leap for ocean conservation
The lionfish, with its showy patterning of striped and dotted spines, is a beautiful sight for a diver to behold. But looks can be deceiving. These stunning creatures are an invasive species rapidly reducing native fish populations in the Western Atlantic, Caribbean, and Gulf of Mexico. Once they arrive in a reef, research suggests that native fish populations can plummet by as much as 70 percent.
Lionfish are indiscriminate eaters that feed on everything from young fish to crustaceans. They can eat prey over half the size of their body with their expandable stomachs. Those long, colorful fin rays are used to ambush prey including the cleaner and grazer fish that keep older fish and the reef clean. And, they have few natural predators. Collectively, these factors have led to an explosion in the lionfish population.
The Monterey Bay Aquarium Seafood Watch Program, which helps consumers and businesses choose seafood that’s fished or farmed in ways that protect sea life and habitats, recently encouraged consumers to eat lionfish. It is listed among the program’s “best choices.” Atlanta shoppers can now purchase the de-spined fish fresh at select Whole Foods stores.
f you can’t beat ‘em, eat ‘em, right? One local chef is trying to help reduce numbers of lionfish and educate his guests in the process. Brush Sushi Izakaya’s chef/owner Jason Liang recently added the showy fish to his menu.
“I had heard about the situation of lionfish and thought maybe we can help a bit by serving them,” Liang said.
On a recent dinner visit to Liang’s Decatur restaurant, a piece of lionfish nigiri was included in my omakase. The sweet, almost buttery fish tasted similar to grouper. The texture had a bit of a bite to it, which was a well-received change from the salmon and tuna that preceded it.
This particular fish came from waters off of Florida and was sourced by local purveyor Inland Seafood. According to Liang, lionfish wasn’t “that expensive compared with Japanese fish, which is about three times more.
Liang has also featured a fried lionfish dish on his specials menu for $14. Frying is an easy way for home cooks to prepare lionfish in their own kitchens. Liang lightly battered and fried the fish loin, backbone, and cheek and served the pieces with little bowls of salt and ponzu for dipping and a wedge of lime. It was lighter and more delicate than expected, and the addition of speckled lionfish fins as garnishes made the dish seem even more exotic.
The dish sold out quickly once it was paraded through the dining room. To that Liang said with a grin, “Maybe I should order more next time.”